Fine Dining Table Team: We’re thrilled to be sitting down with Pablo Rivero, the mastermind behind Don Julio, a restaurant that has truly put Buenos Aires on the global culinary map. Thank you for joining us, Pablo.
Pablo Rivero: Thank you for having me. It’s an honor to be recognized in this way.
Fine Dining Table Team: Don Julio has become synonymous with the gastronomic excellence of Argentina. Do you feel a certain responsibility as one of the pioneers in this field?
Pablo Rivero: I wouldn’t call it a responsibility as much as a privilege. What’s happening at Don Julio isn’t just about me or the restaurant—it’s part of a larger story, a reflection of Argentina’s rich cultural heritage. Our success is a collective achievement. The appreciation for our meat, wine, service, and overall dining experience speaks to the love and pride we Argentines have for our cuisine.
Fine Dining Table Team: That’s a wonderful perspective. Speaking of cultural heritage, how do you see the evolution of Argentina’s wine industry? It seems to have grown hand in hand with your restaurant.
Pablo Rivero: Absolutely. The transformation of Argentine wine is a testament to the dedication of our small and medium-sized producers who have always aimed to redefine how the world views our wine. This evolution has created a diverse and dynamic landscape, mirroring the complexity of Argentina itself. Being part of this journey has been a privilege, and it’s also why wine is such a cornerstone of the Don Julio experience.
Fine Dining Table Team: Your passion for wine and Argentine culture is palpable. But let’s go back to the beginning. How did Don Julio come to life?
Pablo Rivero: It all started in 1999 when I was just 19 years old. Don Julio began as a family venture—we lived above the restaurant. My parents and grandmother were deeply involved in the early days, but eventually, I became the sole steward of the restaurant. Despite that, it remains a family restaurant at its core, something that’s intrinsic to our identity.
Fine Dining Table Team: Could you ever see Don Julio expanding beyond Argentina?
Pablo Rivero: No, Don Julio belongs to Argentina. Its soul is deeply rooted in this country, and that’s where it will stay.
Fine Dining Table Team: You’ve mentioned the essence of family in your work. What’s next on the horizon for you? Any new projects?
Pablo Rivero: We’re always exploring new ideas. Right now, I’m working on opening a bakery just across from El Preferido, my other restaurant. This will be our third venture in the neighborhood—well, fourth, if you count the butcher shop. We like to keep things local and rooted in the community.
Fine Dining Table Team: El Preferido has become quite popular, especially with tourists who can’t get a reservation at Don Julio. How’s it doing?
Pablo Rivero: It’s doing exceptionally well. It’s a place that the neighborhood really loves. The restaurant has been there since 1953, and when we took over in 2018-19, we renovated it while preserving its heart and soul. It’s been a labor of love, and I’m thrilled with how it’s been received.
Fine Dining Table Team: We have to ask—what’s your favorite dish at El Preferido? And at Don Julio?
Pablo Rivero: At El Preferido, I have a soft spot for the fugaceta milanesa. As for Don Julio, the sirloin steak is my favorite. It’s a cut that’s packed with flavor, yet it’s lean. It’s also a cut that carries a lot of nostalgia for Argentines—it’s something many of us grew up eating, so it holds a special place in our hearts.
Fine Dining Table Team: And for starters? Any favorites?
Pablo Rivero: I’m partial to chinchulines, though I know they’re not for everyone. They’re quite popular in Argentina and some parts of Latin America, but less so elsewhere. It’s an acquired taste, but one that’s deeply rooted in our culinary traditions.
Fine Dining Table Team: Speaking of traditions, you’ve traveled extensively. How do you view the meat cultures in other parts of the world, especially in Eastern Europe?
Pablo Rivero: Each region has its own unique approach to meat, shaped by the local products and traditions. In Argentina, we have an incredible diversity of grilling techniques that vary from Patagonia to the north, from the mountains to the Atlantic. This diversity is a reflection of our landscape and culture. I’m always open to experimenting with different cuts and methods from other parts of the world—it’s all about respecting the product and the tradition behind it.
Fine Dining Table Team: Are there any meat-centric restaurants outside of Argentina that have left a lasting impression on you?
Pablo Rivero: There are so many. Casa Julián in Tolosa, Spain, for instance, has a special place in my heart. Also, Zagardi in Barcelona. Each place has its own culture, and it’s fascinating to see how they approach meat. But no matter where I go, I always find something to appreciate and learn from.
Fine Dining Table Team: Lastly, why should someone visiting Argentina make it a point to dine at Don Julio?
Pablo Rivero: I think visitors will find something genuine at Don Julio—a true expression of Argentine culture and cuisine. Our team is passionate about what we do, and we aim to present Argentine cuisine at its best. But it’s not just about Don Julio. Argentina has a vibrant culinary scene, and I would encourage anyone to explore different grills and taverns to get a real sense of who we are as a people. Our food tells our story, and there’s no better way to get to know us.
Fine Dining Table Team: How long should someone plan to stay in Buenos Aires to truly experience it?
Pablo Rivero: Buenos Aires is a city with endless layers, much like New York or Mexico City. I’d say a week is the minimum to really soak it all in, but the more time you have, the better. This city has so much to offer—world-class theaters, museums, a vibrant gastronomic scene, distinct neighborhoods with unique architecture, and of course, football. It’s a city that will leave you wanting more.
Fine Dining Table Team: Thank you so much for your time, Pablo. It’s been a pleasure.
Pablo Rivero: The pleasure was mine. Thank you.
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